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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might foresee familiar award-winning names. Yet, tucked high among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu situated in a distant corner of northern London.

An Unexpected Honour

This compact Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. The recognition has left the owners totally surprised.

“I’m utterly surprised,” says a family member, referring to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their modest shop securing such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its original charm. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender quality.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

It is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

The Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at elite restaurants. “I am really happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate beyond its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this gastronomic triumph.